If you only have 48 hours in Luxor, you have some choices to make. Two days is not a lot of time to dive into thousands of years of Egyptian culture.

I opted to visit the Karnak and Luxor temples, the Valley of the Kings and the Temple of Hatshepsut in the Valley of the Queens. I also made a quick stop at Colossi of Memnon right around sunset. There were lots of temples, tombs and museums I had to skip, but I still feel like I got the full Luxor experience.

Here’s how you can do the same in just 48 hours in Luxor, Egypt.

What to Do

Temple of Karnak

This is the largest human-made temple complex in the world and where you’ll find the Avenue of the Sphinxes, a pathway lined with Sphinxes that once led to the Luxor Temple. I loved walking through the 134 giant sandstone columns that resemble papyrus stalks in a section of the temple known as Great Hypostyle Hall.

There’s nothing quite like standing next to a 70-foot tall, 18-foot wide column thousands of years older than yourself to put things into perspective. While you’re there, check out the views of the Precinct of Amun-Re from the Sacred Lake and look out for the Obelisks of Hatshepsut.

I’ve walked through ancient ruins before, but doing it here took me back to second grade and brought back the excitement I had about the world as a kid who had just heard about King Tut.

Luxor Temple

This temple is magnificent during the day but gets even better at night. Luxor is one of Egypt’s largest and best-preserved temples. Giant stone statues of Ramesses II greet visitors at the temple’s entrance. A Grand Colonnade hints at what participating in a grand processional entrance might have felt like. More mesmerizing giant columns fill at the Sun Court of Amenhotep III.

Luxor isn’t just a window into ancient Egypt, it’s also a window into the Roman Empire. Spend a few minutes looking at the frescoes inside the Roman sanctuary and wander the remnants of the Roman fortress that once surrounded the temple. To see the temple in its full glory, visit around sunset. Golden hour makes the sandstone here even more beautiful, and the changing colors in the sky make for an especially magical backdrop.

Valley of the Kings

Remember when I said experiencing Luxor in 48 hours would require some hard choices? This was one of them for me. I could dive deep into one of these sights but not both. I opted for the Valley of the Kings because I wanted to see King Tut’s tomb.

About 500 years of pharaohs are buried in these tombs cut from rocks on the west bank of the Nile River. I didn’t see everything, but I did get to see King Tut’s tomb and check out the frescoes leading to the tomb of Ramesses III. That plus the scenery was enough for me.

Hatshepsut Temple

Hatshepsut Temple is located in the Valley of the Queens a short drive from the Valley of the Kings. This is where Egyptian queens, princes and princesses are buried. Having spent most of my day in the Valley of the Kings, I had to pick just one destination in the Valley of the Queens. I chose the Temple of Hatshepsut, and I chose well.

Hatshepsut is a queen who became a pharaoh and built a magnificent three level temple into the limestone cliffs in the Egyptian desert. This temple’s walls tell the stories of sailing ships, of soldiers and of a place called Punt.

Spend some time checking out the Osirid statues and the ceiling in the main sanctuary. Stop at each level to admire the views from the temple. The best-preserved reliefs are on the middle level.

Colossi of Memnon

It was late in the day by the time I got to these giants in the desert. The Colossi of Memnon are a pair of gigantic statues built to represent pharaoh Amenhotep III and to preside over his funerary temple.

This was my last stop on a full day of exploring the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens, and I pulled up shortly before a bridal party with a boombox pulled up and jumped out of a minivan. These women were pure joy. The music and dancing made this place feel like a movie set, and I can’t think of a better way to experience it.

Where to Stay

I found deals at the Sofitel Winter Palace and the Steigenberger Nile Palace hotels. The Sofitel is a classic luxury hotel with a formal feel. Think chandeliers, fireplaces and old-world decor. It’s got a gorgeous pool, lots of outdoor spaces for drinks and shisha and manicured garden views from many rooms.

I opted for the more modern Steigenberger Nile Palace, an outpost of a German hotel chain, a short drive away. I got upgraded to a suite when I checked in, and I’m pretty sure I’ve lived in smaller apartments in New York, Chicago and Washington, D.C. My suite had a balcony large enough to host a dinner party and a Nile River View. Best of all— it had a comfy, king-sized bed, a separate sitting area and a slice of welcome cake.

There are five restaurants on-site, including Nubia, which has one of the best breakfast buffets I’ve ever seen and a juice bar for custom-made fresh juices. There’s also a pool, a gym and a spa.

The staff here is stellar, just like at the Kempinski Nile Cairo. I asked for help hiring a driver who wouldn’t try to push souvenir shopping on me, and a young woman on the hotel staff delivered. If you’ve ever been to Luxor, Jaipur or Agra, you know what a win that is.

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Where to Eat

Sofra

Step back in time inside this 1930s home that now houses one of the city’s top restaurants. The mezze platter makes for a meal itself, or eat your way across Egypt with main courses like stuffed duck or lamb shank and okra stew. There aren’t a ton of vegetarian options on the menu, but the seasonal vegetable casserole is a solid choice.

If you’ve got the time, consider booking a cooking class here. The experience includes shopping at a local market.

Al-Sahaby Lane Restaurant

Al-Sahaby Lane is more than just a restaurant with a view. This restaurant at the top of the Nefertiti Hotel has a broad menu of Egyptian dishes, mezze, pizzas, salads and soups. It’s a traveler’s restaurant trifecta—a rooftop with Luxor Temple views, good food and great service.

Nubia

This Nubian-inspired restaurant is where you’ll find the Steigenberger Nile Palace’s epic breakfast buffet. From pastries to cold cuts, cheeses, fruit and custom omelettes, you’ll find a little bit of everything here. And there’s no better place to enjoy breakfast than the restaurant’s expansive terrace.